Bake up some holiday treats
Published Saturday November 21st, 2009
Pastry chef says 'tis the season for novices to start new hobby
As winter closes in, the warmth of our kitchens seems to beckon to us and urge us in this month of November to start our holiday baking.
And whether it is something as simple as shortbread cookies or a traditional fruit cake or Chelsea buns or a confection that is a little more complicated to put together, thank goodness there are still those cooks who choose to bake their own goodies.
"Baking is so self-evident and so visual and technique-oriented that it's a shame a new generation may not have seen their mothers doing it in their formative years," says Marcy Goldman, a professional pastry chef.
But someone out there is baking. As her BetterBaking.com website attests, the Montreal resident has thousands of regular subscribers.
"I think for those who want to bake, the first thing is to find recipes that they know and trust," says Goldman, who has two new books out. "A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking: 10th Anniversary New Edition" and "The New Best of BetterBaking.com" have both been published this fall by Whitecap.
"To a baker, holidays are as much about holiday foods as they are about family," she says.
Goldman says that she believes it is the simple things that can spoil baking for some people.
"It is that whole belief about baking being scientific that scares people off," she says. "Or it can be something like an unevenly heated oven. I respond to that by suggesting stacking two baking sheets together with your muffin tins or cookies and that gives an insulated approach."
And Goldman is strident when it comes to quality ingredients, which is essential to the outcome of any baking project.
"There are no shortcuts or compromises," she says. "We are talking unsalted butter, not margarine, we are talking sea salt or kosher salt which is iodine-free and better tasting, and unbleached all-purpose flour."
Goldman adds that the best outlets for fresh ingredients like dried fruits, nuts, spices, chocolate and just about anything required for baking are bulk food stores which have a high turnover.
"And my KitchenAid (stand mixer) is the best appliance as well as a french whisk," she recommends. "But I won't use silicone bakeware because I don't like the finished results ... things don't brown well."
The type of french whisk Goldman is referring to consists of a series of looped wires forming a three-dimensional tear-drop shape. The wires are joined and held together with along handle.
Instead of silicone bakeware, she uses aluminum pans with parchment paper.
Finally, Goldman tells those who are new to home baking: "A bad effort is better than what is out there commercially.
"New bakers should try something simple and just ploddingly go through the process," she adds. "It may not be perfection, but it will still be pretty good."
She adds: "A craft like baking is nurturing, it's rustic and it's not a bad skill to acquire and reinvest in.
"I think baking is so old it's kind of new. Every time I bake it gives me a sense of well-being and a sense of such energy in the house you can't even describe it to people."
Traditional Holiday Fruitcake
This traditional holiday fruitcake, is gently spiced, not too dark, not too light. It is wonderful fresh but improves greatly with aging.
It is especially good aged at least one month or as long as six months, says its creator, pastry chef Marcy Goldman.
375 ml dark raisins 1 1/2 cups
375 ml golden raisins 1 1/2 cups
125 ml dried currants 1/2 cup
250 ml mixed candied orange and lemon peel 1 cup
250 ml candied cherries 1 cup
250 ml packed pitted dates, chopped 1 cup
175 ml brandy, dark rum or whisky, heated 3/4 cup
250 ml unsalted butter, melted 1 cup
425 ml white sugar 1 3/4 cups
125 ml firmly packed brown sugar 1/2 cup
4 eggs 4
10 ml pure vanilla extract 2 tsp
30 ml honey or corn syrup 2 tbsp
750 ml all-purpose flour 3 cups
7 ml baking powder 1 1/2 tsp
2 ml salt 1/2 tsp
5 ml ground cinnamon 1 tsp
2 ml ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp
2 ml ground cloves 1/2 tsp
375 ml walnuts, toasted and chopped 1 1/2 cups
Candied cherries, for garnish (optional)
Brandy, orange liqueur or apple cider (or a mixture of all), for soaking
For the cake, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days before making the cake, in a large bowl, combine dark raisins, golden raisins, currants, candied peel, cherries and dates. Toss with hot brandy and set aside to soak.
Preheat oven to 160 C (325 F). Line the bottom of two 23-by- 13-cm (9-by-5-inch) loaf pans or one 23- or 25-cm (9- or 10-inch) tube pan with parchment paper and spray paper with non-stick cooking spray. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together butter and both sugars on the lowest speed until fluffy.
Beat in eggs, vanilla and honey. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Whisk to blend. Gradually add to wet ingredients and stir to blend. Stir in fruit and nuts until well blended.
Spoon mixture into prepared pans. At this point you may garnish the top of the cake with extra cherries, if desired. Place pans on prepared baking sheet. Bake for 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until cake is firm, lightly browned and springs back when gently pressed. If the top is baking too quickly, cover it loosely with aluminum foil and lower temperature to 150 C (300 F). Let cool in pans on wire rack for 15 minutes, then unmould onto wire rack and let cool completely.
Sprinkle or lightly soak a large piece of cheesecloth (or 2 pieces if you have made 2 cakes) with brandy. Using a cake tester or a small knife, poke holes all over the surface of the cake(s).
Wrap cake(s) in soaked cheesecloth. Wrap in plastic wrap, then in a clean tea towel or place in a cake tin.
Refresh cheesecloth once a week by sprinkling with more soaking liquid. Rewrap and age for at least 3 days or as long as 6 months.
Makes 2 loaf cakes or 1 tube cake; serves 16 to 24.
Bread Pudding Muffins
These delightful bread pudding muffin ideal for either breakfast or dessert. These mini puddings consist of bread chunks in a buttery, cream-laced custard.
1.75 l cubed challah, brioche or croissants 7 cups
125 ml milk 1/2 cup
375 ml warm half-and-half or light cream 1 1/2 cups
4 eggs 4
150 ml sugar 2/3 cup
10 ml pure vanilla extract 2 tsp
15 ml brandy (optional) 1 tbsp
125 ml unsalted butter, melted 1/2 cup or 4 oz
75 ml all-purpose flour 1/3 cup
15 ml baking powder 1 tbsp
1.5 ml salt 3/8 tsp
1 ml ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp
125 ml golden raisins, plumped and patted dry1/2 cup
Icing sugar mixed with a touch of cocoa or cinnamon, for dusting
Preheat oven to 180 C (350 F). Line 12 muffin cups with paper liners or spray generously with non-stick cooking spray. Grease the top of the muffin pan. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.
Pour all but 500 ml (2 cups) of the bread cubes in a large bowl. Add milk and cream and let stand for 3 minutes, then stir to mush up some of the cubes and let the liquid soak in. Stir in eggs, sugar, vanilla, brandy and butter. In a small bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon, then stir into wet ingredients.
Add raisins and stir well to make a chunky butter.
Stir in reserved breads cubes just to mix.
Using a large ice-cream scoop, fill each muffin cup to just over the rim. Place muffin pan on prepared baking sheet.
Bake for about 30 minutes or until muffins are golden with the tips of the firmer bread cubes golden brown.
Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. Unmould onto a serving platter on a wire rack, then dust with icing sugar.
Makes 12 muffins.
Source: “The New Best of BetterBaking.com” by Marcy Goldman (Whitecap, $29.95).
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