Improvements planned add to the scenic trail's appeal

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By Kevin Bissett
THE CANADIAN PRESS

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ST. MARTINS, N.B. - Nestled along New Brunswick's south coast, well away from the major highways, is one of Atlantic Canada's true tourism gems -- the Fundy Trail.

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The Canadian Press

A couple walks on the ocean floor at low tide to view the caves carved in the red sandstone by the Bay of Fundy.

The Canadian Press

Visitors make their way across a suspension bridge spanning Big Salmon River.

The Canadian Press

Some of the challenging hiking trails on the Fundy Trail feature steep ascents, some feature cable ladders, pictured, to help visitors make the trek.

It's a treasure that is growing in popularity and in size as the majestic system of roadways, hiking and biking trails, and scenic outlooks enters its second phase of development.

"When it's completed, New Brunswickers will be very proud of the spectacular view and closeness of the Bay of Fundy that we're going to provide," says Stuart Jamieson, New Brunswick's minister of tourism.

"It's the largest project of tourism in the province's history, and it's something that will last for generations to come."

The Fundy Trail -- open from mid-May to mid-October -- was started in 1990 and began with the purchase of 28,000 hectares of land from the Hearst Corp.

In fact, the Hearst lodge still remains on the property. With four bedrooms plus two adjacent cabins, it was built as a fishing lodge above salmon spawning pools on the Big Salmon River by U.S. newspaper magnate J. Randolph Hearst.

For hearty tourists willing to make the hike, the lodge -- 2.8 kilometres from the interpretive centre on the river -- is open to visitors to view.

The coastline along the Fundy Trail features spectacular views of the bay, red sandstone cliffs, waterfalls and secluded beaches.

To get to the trail, head to St. Martins, a quaint coastal community 50 kilometres east of Saint John.

Here you'll find a collection of shops, B&Bs, inns and small restaurants ready to serve the catch of the day and seafood chowder.

There are also the caves, carved by the mighty Bay of Fundy tides. Time your visit for low tide, and you can walk on the floor of the bay, collect shells and venture into the caves.

Don't let the winding, secondary roads from Saint John to St. Martins lower your expectations. Once on the trail parkway you'll find a well maintained, paved road with incredible views around every turn.

"It is fitted to the landscape, resulting in it being very twisty with low posted speeds," said Frank Wilson, president of the Fundy Trail Development Authority. "The Fundy Trail Parkway is not just an auto trail. It has a trail beside it for hiking and cycling.

"I'm a firm believer that there's a lot of very athletic hikers who can hike that coast, but there are a lot of people who may be handicapped or elderly who also should be able to see that coast, and that's what we have designed it (the parkway) for," Wilson said. "There's a lot of parking where people can easily get up onto the wooden platform areas and get a good view."

But for those wanting some exercise there are hiking and biking trails with levels of difficulty ranging from easy to challenging. The tougher trails include uneven terrain with ascents ranging from 300 metres to more than 700 metres.

Some of trails include steep stairs and ladders but the destinations, such as Fuller Falls, are well worth the effort.

During a recent visit two retired couples who had made the trek to the base of the falls were relaxing on the benches there, enjoying the sight and sound of the water, and had unpacked a picnic lunch complete with cheese, crackers and a bottle of wine.

Nearby, Kathy Koop of Verdun, Man., described the trail as an adventure.

"A lot of difficult walks, but it has been very enjoyable," she said. "The scenery is beautiful, and very much different from home."

Meanwhile, Susan Penner of Swift Current, Sask., said that after years of touring Western Canada, she was making her first trip east.

"It's absolutely beautiful. The rock formations are gorgeous," said Penner.

The current 11 kilometres of the Fundy Trail Parkway, from St. Martins to the Big Salmon River, attracts up to 50,000 visitors a year.

A bridge completed in September now allows vehicles to cross the river, leaving another 30 kilometres of roadway and trail to be completed over the next five or six years.

Once complete, tourists will be able to explore the New Brunswick coastline from Reversing Falls in Saint John through to Fundy National Park and Hopewell Cape -- a distance of some 140 kilometres.

"For me (the 30 remaining kilometres) symbolizes the missing link . . . to complete the project all the way through and realize everybody's dream," said Brian Clark, manager of the Fundy Trail.