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Speak Up

The Jolly Breeze was built in Whangarei, New Zealand. It's the only tall ship that takes passengers out whale watching and I had decided that if I was going on such a venture, I would do it in style.

The owners, Robert and his wife Joanne, are a young adventurous couple who actually live on the boat year round. Though they've sailed around the world, St. Andrews is now their home, that is during the summers anyway.

The sun shines brightly and there is a gentle breeze.

"Though there isn't usually enough wind to actually sail, the boat's rags are always put up to blow in the wind and give everyone aboard a fun sailing experience," explains Robert as he passes out binoculars and sunscreen to all aboard.

Other than tourists, there are a few locals from St. Andrews with us on the ship, lending a hand with the sailing, pointing out porpoises in the distance as well as answering our questions regarding the wildlife and islands around us.

A little boy of about 10 sits next to me and keeps asking, "Do you see a whale?"

I politely reply no, till about the 25th time after which, I say "Oh yes!" and point to the opposite end of the ship.

He skips over excitedly and starts taking pictures of the ocean with his underwater camera. I feel slightly guilty, but he seems perfectly happy, and at last I am left alone with my thoughts. Starring out at the horizon, out in the open sea, I always feel such an innate sense of peace. Suddenly, I hear the little boy scream, "Whales! Whales!"

I look over in his direction to see two dolphins playfully jumping in and out of the water only a few yards away from the ship.

And then out of nowhere there really is a whale. I'd never before seen a live whale so close. It is so large and so beautiful, it is awe inspiring.

As we head back to shore, Joanne passes out warm blankets and Rob passes out hot pea soup. We've spent four hours on the ship and miraculously, not one person has gotten sea-sick.

From the pier, we head to my husband's favourite tourist destination: the aquarium.

We're greeted by a 12-pound lobster in the window before rushing to catch the 4 p.m. feeding of harbour seals. The Hunstman aquarium, though small, is great fun for little kids as there is a touch pool where you can 'pet' star fish, anemones and even crabs, but you have to be careful as they pinch!

All that food wets our appetite, and since I get to choose the next stop, we head for Kingsbrae Garden, where you can find flowers and chocolate cake. What more can a woman ask for?

Nestled within the heart of St. Andrews, Kingsbrae Garden offers walking paths through an unbelievable collection of 45,000 flowers and shrubs. My favourite: the edible garden, where you can taste what you see.

We end our trip, at the garden's cosy café where large windows allow guests to enjoy a view of the outdoors while indoors.

Here we have desert: chocolate mud cake served in a clay terra cotta pot, it even includes a ladybug (made of chocolate of course)! Overall, a sweet end to a great day in St. Andrews by the Sea.

* Lili Nasseri, a family doctor, enjoys travelling and writing in her free time. Her Maritime Travel column appears the first Saturday of each month in Travel & Leisure.